A cottage is not a small house. Many were built decades ago by their owners, added onto over the years and never meant for winter. They also have their own water and sewage systems. A good inspection often takes more than one inspector.
Structure and foundation
Many cottages sit on piers or posts, not a full foundation. That is normal, but it needs a close look.
- Piers and posts that lean, have sunk or have shifted with frost
- Wood posts or beams touching soil, and any rot or soft spots
- Floors that slope or bounce, and doors that stick
- Where additions join the original cottage, since they often settle differently
- Water running toward the building or pooling in the crawl space
- Insulation and vapour barrier under the floor, if you want winter use
Lenders care about this too. A cottage on blocks may fall into a stricter mortgage category than one on a permanent foundation. See financing a cottage.
Roof
- Age and condition of shingles or metal
- Moss, needles and overhanging branches
- Flashing around the chimney, vents and skylights
- Stains on ceilings and in the attic
- Sagging rooflines, especially on low-slope additions and porches
Electrical
Old wiring is one of the most common reasons a cottage is hard to insure. Requirements differ by insurer, so find out what yours wants before you firm up.
- Service size. Many older cottages have 60 amp service. Some insurers treat it as higher risk and may ask for an upgrade or an inspection.
- Fuses. A fuse panel is another item insurers often ask about.
- Aluminum wiring. The Electrical Safety Authority says homes built between the mid-1960s and late 1970s may have it. It can be safe when connections are done properly, but some insurers want an ESA inspection first.
- Knob and tube. Found in the oldest buildings. Many insurers want it replaced.
- Homemade work. Look for open junction boxes, extension cords used as permanent wiring, and wiring run to bunkies, docks and boathouses without a permit.
- Protection near water. Check for ground fault protection on outdoor, dock, kitchen and bathroom outlets.
If anything looks doubtful, have a Licensed Electrical Contractor price the repair.
Plumbing and the heat line
- Type and age of the supply pipes and drains
- Leaks, patches and signs of past freeze damage
- Whether the lines slope to a drain point so the system can be emptied in fall
- Water heater age, and whether it is owned or rented
- For winter use, a heated water line from the lake or well. Confirm it works, how it is controlled and where it enters the building.
Septic
The septic system is one of the most expensive things to replace, and a standard home inspection usually does not test it. Hire a septic inspector or licensed installer.
- Ask for the permit or use permit from the township or health unit. It shows the system’s age, type and the number of bedrooms it was designed for.
- Have the tank pumped and inspected during your conditional period.
- Walk the bed. Look for wet ground, odour, very green grass, trees growing on it or anything built or parked on top.
- Compare the number of bedrooms and bunkies in use with what the system was designed for.
- Ask whether the township runs a septic re-inspection program and whether there are open orders.
Water system
- Source: drilled well, dug well, sand point or lake intake
- Pump and pressure tank age and condition
- Treatment: sediment filters and ultraviolet light, and when the lamp was last changed
- A lab test for bacteria. Lake water must be treated before drinking.
- Flow rate, if it is a well. Lenders often ask for this.
Our guide to septic, wells and water explains these systems in plain terms.
Wood stove and WETT
WETT stands for Wood Energy Technology Transfer, a Canadian program that trains and certifies people who install and inspect wood-burning systems. Most insurers will want a report from a WETT-certified inspector before they cover a cottage with a wood stove or fireplace.
- A certification label on the stove
- Clearances to walls, floors and furniture
- Floor protection in front of and under the stove
- Chimney type, condition, height and cap
- Creosote build-up and the date of the last cleaning
Docks and cribs
- Type: floating, pipe or crib
- Rotten decking and stringers, loose hardware and tired floats
- Cribs that have shifted, tilted or lost rock from ice
- Boathouse foundations, since they are costly to repair
- Whether the dock and boathouse had permits, and whether they sit on land the seller owns. See our Waterfront 101 guide.
Much of a dock is under water, so try to view it at low water or ask a dock builder for an opinion.
Pests
- Mice: droppings, chewed wiring and nests in insulation
- Carpenter ants: sawdust-like piles near damp wood
- Bats and squirrels in the attic
Outbuildings and bunkies
- Whether each building had a permit and meets zoning
- Wiring and heat in bunkies and sheds
- Plumbing in a bunkie, and whether it is tied into the septic system legally
What a regular home inspector may not cover
A home inspection is a visual review of what can be seen and reached on the day. Ask the inspector, in writing, what is included. These items are often outside the scope:
- Septic tank and bed
- Well flow and water quality testing
- WETT inspection, unless the inspector is certified
- Docks, cribs and anything under water
- Systems that are shut off or drained, which is a real issue with fall and winter purchases
- Zoning, permits, surveys and shoreline ownership
Choose an inspector who works on cottages regularly, then add the specialists you need. If water is off for the season, talk to your lawyer about a holdback or a warranty in the offer.
For the full buying process, see the buyers guide.